Whidbey Island: Coastal Charm in the Pacific Northwest

We recently discovered the most charming island, tucked away about an hour north of Seattle, Washington and a quick 20-minute ferry ride across Puget Sound. Whidbey Island had a bit of that Nantucket charm we love—laid-back coastal towns, beautiful summer skies, and some of the freshest seafood we could ask for. We were there to visit our cousin, but our stay also gave us the chance to experience island life and spend a day exploring some of the San Juan Islands by boat. It was the perfect start to our adventure north.

We landed in Seattle and took an Uber to the ferry dock that would take us to Whidbey Island.  The Washington State ferry system is an iconic aspect of life on the Puget Sound. The ferry between Mukilteo on the mainland and Clinton on Whidbey Island runs every half hour year round.  You can both drive your car and walk on the ferry.  The cost is only about $7USD/pp to ride if you walk on. (And it’s free going back!)

Another shot of the ferry from our cousin that lives on the island. On a clear day you can see Mt. Baker in the background.

We were fortunate in that we have family that retired to the island so we had wonderful guides to show us around.  We started off our time in Langley, about a 20 minute drive from the ferry.

Langley is so charming, full of shops, restaurants and galleries, perfect for a summer afternoon visit.

Whale watching is very common here. There are days you can see whales passing right from the shore. There are also lots of boat charters you can take that pretty much guarantee spotting a whale or two.

Whidbey is about 55 miles long, but quite narrow—generally only 1.5 to 12 miles wide. It is one of the largest islands in Washington State and is one of the longest islands in the contiguous United States. We stayed near Coupeville, which next to Langley, is another favorite destination on the island, with charming inns and short term rentals in the area. This surprisingly large island and home to tens of thousands of people, yet its little waterfront communities can make it feel like a quiet summer island escape.

While on Whidbey be sure to enjoy the abundance of fresh seafood. Summer is Dungeness Crab season and the salmon is flown in fresh from Alaska. Mussels are another fresh seafood you can find locally on the island. Other times of the year, you can get fresh fish such as halibut. We were fortunate to have the most delicious homecooked meals with crab caught in traps right off the shore of the house!

No matter where you stay on Whidbey Island be sure to make time to walk along the shore and take in all the natural beauty around you!

Cousins (both named Steve!) catching up on an evening walk along the beach.

The next morning we set out to explore. On our way north to Anacortes, we made a quick stop at Deception Pass, the narrow waterway separating Whidbey and Fidalgo islands. The name dates back to 1792, when explorer George Vancouver realized the geography had ‘deceived’ him into thinking Whidbey Island was connected to the mainland.

Don’t let the beautiful blue-green water fool you. As the tides rise and fall twice each day, huge volumes of water rush through the narrow Deception Pass, creating powerful currents, swirling eddies and whirlpools.

We hopped out to walk across the dramatic bridge and take in the views of the swirling blue-green water below. It was a quick stop, but definitely worth it.

After crossing Deception Pass, you then leave Whidbey Island behind and continue onto Fidalgo Island and the waterfront town of Anacortes, often called the gateway to the San Juan Islands. Anacortes is another adorable island town worth exploring. It was early morning so we stopped at a local coffee shop before making our way to the boat dock.

Having a cousin with access to a boat certainly has its perks! But Anacortes is a boating hub, with plenty of rentals and charter options if you want to experience the San Juan Islands from the water.

The cool breeze off the back of the boat as we set out exploring felt great for these Texans escaping the summer heat. At this time of year it is very likely to see whales, dolphins and lots of other wildlife while out on the water.

For month of August, we were told it was a fairly quiet day on the water. The waters were fairly calm. We kept an eye out for whales the whole ride.

On the hour ride out of Anacortes we passed many of the San Juan Islands. You could spend days, even weeks, exploring all there is the offer in this area. Soon we pulled into Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.

After securing the boat at Friday Harbor we set out to explore yet another idyllic setting and town.

Like the adorable towns on Whidbey Island, Friday Harbor has it share of cute shops and great restaurants, making it very popular for visitors in the summer months. The main street is right off of the harbor, as many visitors arrive by boat.

How cute is the Friday Harbor Jolly Trolley? We spotted this seasonal hop-on/hop-off trolley is a fun way to explore San Juan Island without a car, making stops at some of the island’s popular sights. It generally runs from Memorial Day through Labor Day—perfect timing for summer visitors.

There are a lot of great options in town for the freshest seafood but our cousin made reservations at Downriggers. In a two week trip to the Pacific Northwest these local oysters were the very best we had the entire trip! And deviled eggs with Dungeness Crab on top? Yes, please!

Lunch followed by ice cream? Always. We stopped at the tiny Friday Harbor Ice Cream Co. for a scoop before heading back to the boat. Nothing fancy—just one of those simple summer treats that tastes even better on an island

After a walk around the town we made our way back to the boat dock. Finally, we spotted some wildlife! A mama harbor seal and her pup, hanging out at the dock. This was the extent of our sightings for the day. We have seen whales many times so this was not our priority. If seeing whales in the Pacific Northwest is on your bucket list take a charted whale watching boat out of Anacortes or Friday Harbor.

After leaving Friday Harbor we wound our way back around the islands to Anacortes before heading back to Whidbey Island for one last night.

If you find the time, make your way to Fort Casey and Admiralty Lighthouse just outside of Coupeville on Whidbey Island. On a clear day, you will be treated to the most spectacular sunsets, topping off the end of a incredible stay on Whidbey Island!